如果说Hedi Slimane以细身剪裁颠覆了当代男生线条，THOM BROWNE则是把全球男生的裤子都修剪至脚踝之上。1965年美国出生的THOM BROWNE是极少数能以美式传统剪裁影响着整个男装界的设计师。2006年赢得了Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)的年度男装设计师一奖后更是令每一季的设计都创意有余并经典不断。
If Hedi Slimane is credited for changing the silhouette of contemporary menswear with his slim cuts, Thom Browne must be credited with cropping men’s pants to above the ankles. Born in the U.S. in 1965, Thom Browne is one of the few designers who totally changed menswear with his traditional American tailoring skills. The recipient of CDFA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2006, the designer has managed to surprise us with creativity and classic designs every single season.
Thom Browne汤姆·布朗男装的设计风格正是他的个人穿衣之道，他钟情50年代的西装剪裁，永远妥帖的发型，窄长领口的三钮短身西装，不过手腕的微短袖口，外套的腰间开义口，刚落在脚踝之上的裤管，没有皮带圈的高腰西裤，相同衬布的领带，银色领带夹，button down恤衫，黑色礼服皮鞋，这些元素和著名的红白蓝三色永远都可在他的创作中找到，却又每次都有不同。
His designs fully reflect his personal fashion style. His favourite 50’s style suit cuts, impeccably well-groomed, 3-button suits with narrow collars, cropped sleeves that reveal the wrists, a slit at the waist of the jacket, trousers that barely reach the ankle, high-waisted trousers without belts, ties with the same lining, silver tie clips, button down shirts, and black dress shoes along with the colour palette of red, white and blue are elements that frequently surface in his designs – these seemingly similar elements always manage to look different.
拥有大批粉丝的THOM BROWNE与I.T首次合作，在芳草地内开设了首家THOM BROWNE专门店。店面设计保持了设计师一贯的风格，无论是水磨石地面、灰色云石墙面、百叶窗，还是配套的怀旧家具，都将品牌招牌式的美式怀旧气质展露无遗。
Now the incredibly popular THOM BROWNE has teamed up with I.T and opened its first store at Parkview Green. The store, maintaining the consistent design style of THOM BROWNE stores, features polished flooring, gray stone walls, blinds, and nostalgic furnishing, all reflecting its signature American retro ambiance.
2016秋冬服装秀
2016 Autumn/Winter Fashion Show
AW16 以“怀旧”这一主题，设计师脑洞大开并安排开场的双胞胎模特进行走秀，奠定了秋冬系列如镜中人间的虚幻氛围。为什么西装——或是纽扣衬衫配上领带，在一百多年之后依旧成为潮流？这个晚上，THOM BROWNE意图将他的秀场还原成一个世纪以前的华盛顿广场，这正与他设计的男士西装自然旧的风格相得益彰，他再一次从中吸收灵感。
The AW16 collection takes the theme of “nostalgia” and opens the fashion show with twin models, setting the tone with contrasting virtual and real images. Why is the suit still trendy after more than a century? On this night, THOM BROWNE takes us back to Washington Square about a century ago, a perfect setting for his tailored suit. Once again, this is the source of his inspiration.
细节也充满了闪光点，破洞以及毛边的细节元素被大量的运用，再配合以格子，条纹等成衣表面的处理，既保留了品牌正装方面的一贯剪裁特点又加入了只属于这一季的时尚特质。成衣颜色方面，设计时使用了品牌的经典色调，以黑，白，灰以及海军蓝为主体的色调不仅突出了品牌特色，也让本季的成衣看上去低调中又不失奢华。